Chosen due to it`s proximity to the shipping depot that the bikes were originally destined for and the Queensland Transport office, for the inspection and red tape process that was to have been done on Thursday, the day before. But that all got changed for the better. So the motley lot of 8 and the mountain of luggage got dropped off by Pete and Debbie in a convoy of two vehicles, at the little Runcorn railway station for the $12.60? train trip to Caboolture. There the bikes were awaiting us [hopefully] at Conroy`s depot, about 70kms north of Runcorn. So here we are, in the company of Dave & Di, (Honda VFR800) Terry & Linda, (Triumph Sprint) John & Marie (BMW R1100) - who were to share the Aussie roads with us on our Honda ST100 over the next 3 weeks. That was after we had navigated the minefield of rules & regulations that Aussie bureaucrats thrive on
It all started when last November Terry, Linda, John & Marie said, "Do you want to come with us on the 'Get Routed' trip to Far North Queensland in July 2003?" No second thoughts required and due enquiries were made and it looked as though we were all go. But in January Dave Milligan advised that to date there had been no bookings and the minimum advertised was 20 bikes in the container or - no go!
That meant we could not book airfares or plan with any certainty.
So it was back to the drawing board and to cut a long story short we loaded our bikes onto pallets that had originally carried Harleys from Milwaukee to NZ. [Thanks Roger M. for that tip] and yep, Harleys do have their uses. Conroys of Napier provided us with excellent service and our bikes were cleared thru quarantine and customs by an agent arranged by them and they were now waiting us at their depot in Caboolture. They had even arranged for Queensland Transport to check out our bikes at their depot which was just across the road. All that we were required to do was to walk over to the QT office and do the paper work which only took about 1/2 hour.
So ever thing went just like clock work and the dire tales we heard did not materialise. I guess it is always different for different people, but it was good to get some warning of what we were in for and then try to guard against it. Thanks Gary [Conroy] in Napier and Phil [of Conroys Caboolture] Thanks to Debbie also as she had arranged the CTP Insurance policies for us all and they were in place when we arrived. The ability to ship directly in and out of Napier with Conroys was a real bonus and the cost was also a bit less.
So here we were on a very warm, sunny, Friday 5 July morning topping up with petrol and heading down country roads to follow a route to Cairns that involved no more than about 30 minutes of riding the Bruce Highway.
Just a short ride through back roads to Caloundra, via Montville then down a steep interesting narrow road to our Motel. Catch up with Jack [Denise and Terry`s dad] and wine and dine. [I won`t write that again as that can be read as - every night.] It was bloody cold and the Motel had no blankets on the beds! 90 Kms.
Whilst there, about a dozen or so muddied trail riders pulled in for gas after navigating cross country from Maleny. We had a chat with them before they wheelied out of town heading for more off road riding. I was nakedly envious of them! Oh well off to Gayndah [Pop 1,750] [Gayandah Colonial Motor Inn AU$72.50] for the nights stop. A bit late so wound up to 140 Ks plus, a lot of fun, the sun began to set in our faces as we travelled due west and we arrived with dusk upon us. Later locals told us about the Kangaroos, Emus etc that come out on the road at that time of day [and early mornings]. I still get shivers up my spine thinking about that twilight ride! We could easily have died that day. So in Australia, or the part we were in we had been given dire warnings to watch out for: roos, emus, eagles, cassowaries, wombats, snakes and of course, the road trains. Otherwise, as they say over there, 'no worries." Dined at the Hotel. 245 Kms.
Found a bike shop and topped up the puncture repair facilities and of course - did not need them again.
First choice had been to stop over at Clermont [Pop 2,400] but a mine shut down meant that ALL accommodation was taken. Numerous phone calls from NZ had ascertained that. In fact I spotted `Monash Lodge` on the Internet accommodation white pages, phoned and asked for accommodation for 4 couples for Wed 9 July and a clearly puzzled lady told me, "Monash Lodge is a rest home" Appropriate?
So we ended up booking in Capella [pop 750] about 45 ks south. Pulled up under the `Bottlebrush Motel` [AU$85.00] sign and no Motel, just a grotty looking country Service Station. Puzzlement until we discovered that the motel was behind the typical country Service Station. Oh shit. It is the only Motel in town too, BUT, it was superb. Asked gentle giant John, the proprietor of both, where we could eat and he said he would do a barbie and nibbles for 16 bucks. The, consensus was yes and what a great choice. A plate of hot savouries, more than we could eat and then he brings out a bloody great tray of the best looking steaks you will see. Put then on the barbie and John says pick yours and get it when you reckon it`s ready. That was a steak meal to die for. Charles `Bud` Tingwell an Aussie icon and a very nice guy in his eighties with a dry sense of humour [he played the Magistrates role in the movie `The Castles`] joined us in a fairly convivial evening. Capella boasts - The Aquatic Center - The Cultural Centre - The Capella Covered Equestrian Arena. These facilities cost taxpayers $5 million plus. Remember, population 750! The result of an interventionist Government. 356 Kms.
I wonder if the ice would be so easily broken in these cases had we been touring in a car and not by motorcycle. I doubt it. We topped up with gas whether we needed to or not as the next town, Charters Towers [Cattlemens Rest AU$78.00] was 373 ks up the road and there were varying opinions on the availability of gas on the road. There are zero house between the country towns in this part of the world. You are either in town, or, in the deserted country. There is in fact one roadhouse almost exactly halfway and it was doing a steady if not a roaring trade. Didn`t see too many vehicles that took the option of not stopping. One driver remarked that the `road kill` was not as high as when he traveled the road last year when it was in the hundreds! We saw around a dozen. It may have been the heat or something but one who shall be nameless for now complained that he couldn`t find his helmet. It was on his head ????? A bit further on an Emu darted across the road in front of him. Phew that was close as he breathed a sigh of relief. Then the Emus mate that up to then had not been noticed, decided to follow and in doing so whacked the front wheel while the fully laden bike with pillion was braking so hard it lifted the back wheel of the ground. It may not be quite PC but I am bloody happy that Moas are extinct in NZ.
On to Mt Surprise [Pop nominal, like about 20?] [BP Roadhouse AU$55.00] Another pleasant surprise with accommodation here and nothing wrong with the food & hospitality. 425Kms.
We enjoyed the baking of Don who had corresponded by emailed with some helpful info when the trip was in the planning stage. The Mayor of Eacham Shire, Mary Lyle came up to us as we ate on the pavement and gave us all the local gen. We did not expect a Mayoral welcome. A Ulyssian and a cheerful lady. Her cousin Dawn Drake lives in Napier and I know her well. A detour took us to Lake Eacham pretty lake, didn`t read the sign properly when we came to the main road and headed back to wards Malanda. Eventually we re-grouped and turned off again on to another neat narrow twisting country road that took us to a 500 year old curtain fig tree. Spectacular and rivals the Kauri in the Dargaville Kauri forest.
Set off down the `Gillies`. What a contrast to the roads we had been riding! It is a beaut road and was drying nicely. It was great to use up some of the rubber other than the centre bit for a change. Then a few Ks of the Bruce and we arrived at our accommodation at the Cairns Village Resort [5 nights @ AU$78.00] Great value as was most of our accommodation. Even allowing for the exchange they were all better value for money than NZ rates. Taxi to the city for dinner. Boy what an alive and jumping city. Another stark contrast to where we had been. If you are in Cairns [and if you are a guy] check out the urinal at the Rattle `n` Hum. It features a disconcerting one way mirror where you can see the diners and not too sure that they can`t see you! 280 Kms.
Took a 25k detour to the Murray Falls as the Butcher suggested. Not much water but an impressive rock face that would no doubt provide a spectacle with more water. Stopped at Cardwell, [Pop2,000] a seaside town. Went to the Information center and there were two doors of the same size about two feet apart. The door on our left had a notice that read, "This door to be used by delegates and staff only". So we went through the door on our right. When leaving the building the same notice was on the other side of the door, now on our right ? The doors opened into the same room and the doors are the same? I have great regrets now that I did not ask why there are two doors and what the difference was?
The rain had disappeared and it was now sunny and warm as we shed a layer or two. Another detour the Butcher suggested was to Lucinda. Got a close up of the sugar cane being harvested as we sat beside the road.as we took the side road to Lucinda, a little village that boasts a jetty that loads the sugar ships by conveyor belt. The jetty is one of the longest of its type in the world, extending for 5.6 kilometres! and dipping 1.2 metres over its length as it follows the curvature of the earth. Sugar takes 22 minutes to travel along the conveyor from the on-shore storage sheds to the ship. Impressive. Had a beer at one of pubs in Halifax only a few Ks south. A nice little town and typical of all Aussie towns we visited, the Pubs are the buildings that dominate the town. Chatted with the friendly publican who provided B&B facilities. He had recently hosted a Harley club made up of `mature` riders for a weekend. It was great he said. Yep, I reckon I could handle a weekend in that neck of the woods.
We had reckoned we would have no trouble with accommodation in a big city like Townsville. [Pop 150,000] Wrong. They were booked out…… Shared a room for one night with Dave and Di [Didn`t know Di snored] but we got our own room the next night. You may think all we did is eat and drink our way around Queensland. We did.
In a prime Waterfront spot, a dozen fresher than fresh oysters cost $8.50. True. We have got the menu to prove it. And the king prawns were $10.50 for about 18. 346Kms.
Approaching Mackay [Pop 75,000] we saw large areas of land growing tomatoes, no glass houses required there. Gave Eric Williams a call. Some will be aware that the inimitable Welshman was a world class Speedway rider who was contracted to ride at Omahu. Yeah it was a while ago, but he decided to make HB his home. A few years ago Eric and Margaret moved to Mckay. Well Eric was delighted to make contact with Dave and myself and we spent some time that evening and the next evening telling lies and wildly exaggerating our off road exploits. I really don`t know why I am writing this bit ? BUT in the course of conversation Margaret, Eric`s partner asked if Dave was my son !!! It was bad light and maybe her spectacle prescription needs updating. Most probably though it was the `child bride` that threw her. I don`t want that subject brought up in the future. Well I guess at best it will be one way of knowing if you have hung in and read this far.
Wined and dined with Eric and Margaret again that night at an impressive, newly developed Marina. Thought Eric looked a little sad as we left. Probably hasn`t been able to take the piss out of anyone as he did over the two days we were there. 160 Kms.
Petrol and brunch at a really busy little Road Stop featuring a working oil well out front. Well, it was moving and looked like the real thing but some one with a sense of humour had gone to a lot of trouble and it was just a have.
Comfort stop at Marlborough. Pop nominal. Saw a caravan and 4x4 vehicle that had rolled, at the country garage. Then to Rockhanpton. [Pop 57,800] And a city at best with no growth, at worst sinking. Saw little evidence of any new development. Dined at the Motel restaurant as we saw nothing else that looked apealing. 358 Kms.
In 1888 a meeting of Bundaberg townspeople formed the company comprising of 5,000 $1.00 shares. Took advantage of the tour discounts at the Distillery shop then went back to the craft shop. Denise bought a plate she had hummed and hahhed over earlier. She does that.
Went to the RSL for dinner. Shared a table with a guy in his 80s. Kieth Thiel, a Kiwi who is writing a book. It would be worth reading it if he ever finishes it. He flew Lancasters in the war. Flew for Qantas for twenty years. One DC4 flight took 17 hours to fly NZ - Sydney. Crossed the Tasman 12 times in his yacht that he lives in. It is now moored at the jetty just behind the club. He uses a white cane and won`t be sailing anywhere again, although his eyesighr wasn`t that bad as he noticed Di. He offered to sail Di back to Thailand. He said, "I like your hair - on my pillow." Noticed Di moving around the corner of the table as the night went on. Then the lights went out and the rest of the night was by candlelight.
Terry helped him down to the jetty - without Di. 24Kms.
Down the road we experienced only our second drop of rain. Some put on their wet weather gear but it wasn`t too long before it stopped and we were back into sunshine. Some one ? couldn`t put on their wet weather gear as Marie had posted some shopping back home- including John`s wet weather gear! Marie is not silly though, she didn`t send hers back.
Next stop was a reality check with busy roads and bustling business areas as we parked in Noosa`s Hastings Street. Most of the party had not been there before and found it a contrast to our other stops. The beach has had a whole lot of sand dropped on it since our last visit. All it needs is money, eh.
Down the jam packed Sunshine motorway where a cop latched on to the convoy, probably checking out the `funny` numberplates but he went on his way again. With Jack`s waterblaster we got the bikes hopefully clean enough for MAF and then went out for our `last supper` I felt sorry for the other diners. 316 Kms.
Total mileage on my odometer, which checked 100% accurate [It was interesting to note the huge variations in mileages between the different bikes as the Ks accumulated] was 5,155 kilometres. You will have noted that we did not do any big mileage's in one day. But we were on the road at close to 8am each travelling day and generally arrived at our destination at around 4pm, so we spent most of the day just `getting there`, smelling the flowers on the way and - talking to people.
The company was superb, we had lots of fun together and we felt more than a little sad to part at the Central rail station at Brisbane where we left to transfer to another train back to Runcorn. We received lots of help in getting the venture on the road. We met some really nice people. We travelled some great roads and we saw a lot of really interesting towns At no time could the countryside be confused with NZ`s. There were always subtle differences and at times, extreme differences.
When we finished our journey I said to myself, well that was good but I wouldn`t want to do it again.
Now I have changed my mind.
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